A two-phase wiring diagram in a private house. Electricity supply of a private house: single-line scheme. Power supply scheme for a private house

Building your own a country house   - the dream of any resident of the city. Just imagine how pleasant it is to work in the city all day, then tired to return to your countryside and breathe the fresh air. However, to arrange such a home will have to make a lot of efforts. Of course, the paramount task of any construction is the erection of walls, roofs and interior decoration in the house. However, at the time of the project development, the wiring diagram in the private house should already be clearly worked out, since no modern dwelling does not do without signs of civilization - a TV set, telephone, music center and other household appliances. If you do not pay proper attention to the design of the electrical part of the house, it will be very difficult to install electrical equipment. This should be remembered by any developer who is developing a wiring diagram at home with his own hands.

Why do we need a well-designed scheme?

As it became clear, it is necessary to think everything over before the construction starts. Of course, it is possible to build wires around the house even before finishing, with the proper experience of an electrician, however, the wiring diagram in a private house must be designed in advance. This will allow to take into account some moments for the maximum technological design of the "box" of living quarters. Besides:

1. The wiring diagram in a private house will provide a complete picture of the need to purchase all necessary consumables for installation: wires, junction boxes, sockets, switches and other trifles; running around each of them to the store will be extremely inconvenient during the work.

2. In the design documentation for electrification all necessary calculations are performed to determine the required area and also the parameters of other devices - switchboard, electricity metering devices, automatic overload protection, which will help to prevent an emergency situation.

How correctly to make the project?

The scheme largely determines not only the convenience of using all the existing electrical equipment in the future, but also the safety of this operation, so ideally it should be entrusted to the professional electricians who have already studied all the narrow and problematic areas. However, this does not mean that you can not do the project yourself. Let's discuss the basics that will be needed for this.
  So, the most common variant of supplying electricity in the countryside is an air line with a voltage of 0.4 kV. On the input device of the circuit - input shield - comes from the overhead line three wires: the working PEN, phase L and zero protective. Recently, such an electrical board is installed outside the building. In this block there is an electricity meter and (we'll talk about them below).

The wires from the "receiver" get inside the house to the internal electrical panel, after which the wiring diagram in the private house branches out into several groups of main energy consumers:

1. sockets;
2. lighting;
3. business group (sockets, light bulbs, switches in utility rooms, for example, store rooms or tool attachments, and other elements of the wiring diagram in the house);
4. power group required to power large power devices - boiler, boiler, etc.

In order for electricity to be safe, the wiring diagram in wooden house   (brick or block this also applies) should provide security devices for each of the groups described. What is it for? Imagine a situation where, for some reason, a short circuit occurs in the illuminating device. If there is only one circuit breaker in the switchboard, the light in the whole house will be cut down, which means that it will be much more difficult to repair everything. If the machines are in each group, then the house will not remain without electricity. If there are 2 floors, it is advisable to put a separate switchboard for both.

The sequence of devices to the boiler or bulb is as follows:

Introductory automatic machine, installed outdoors;

Electricity meter;

Internal single-band machine (suitable for single-phase circuit   wiring in the house), from which the zero or phase wires go out;

Zero bus;

Automatic machines for each of the phase wires (to sockets and so on);

Earthing bar.

The electrical wiring diagram in the wooden house is also a plan for calculating the length of the cables. Therefore, the best option is to display the elements on a separate sheet of the house plan. So you will carefully consider the placement of sockets, switches, light bulbs, etc.

Electricians also develop a schematic diagram of the wiring, but this requires additional knowledge, so if you perform work independently, you can omit the item.

In principle, it does not matter, a wiring diagram is being developed in the "Khrushchev" or wooden a country house. In any case, it is worth taking into account some provisions of the current world practice of electrical installation works that will help optimize the number of consumables and distribution points of the supply line without compromising the convenience of using electrical appliances:

1. The most convenient switch is the one that is located next to the door on the side of the handle attachment. The optimal placement option is at the breast level of an adult. First, it will be convenient for all members of the family (we will be supportive of the female half of the population, whose average growth is 10-15 centimeters less than for men). Secondly, the switch will be inaccessible to unnecessarily curious little babies.
2. The layout of wiring for each outlet should not be random or evenly distributed around the perimeter of the room. As a rule, for convenience, it's better to depart from standards and symmetry - think about where stationary electrical appliances like a TV set, a computer will stand. It is in those places it is worthwhile to place and sockets. Do not be stingy at all, since the number of installed outlets does not spoil the interior of the room, but protects you from overloads that can arise as a result of using tees. Do not place the sockets too low, especially in children's rooms (here it is generally better to install a version with a closing lid or automatically hiding plugs).
3. Do not underestimate the rated cross-section of the wires in order to save. In the best case, such savings will lead to frequent disconnection of the protective device, at worst - it is necessary to "open" the wall and transfer the burnt out wire. Believe me, it's much more expensive than buying immediately what you need.
4. When laying wires along the building plan of the house, do not allow diagonal placement. As a rule, the main lines are parallel to the ceiling, and the necessary branches are made only at right angles. Of course, this somewhat increases the length of the wires, but it greatly simplifies the maintenance, and also protects you from electric shock when you need to hang a bookshelf. Just imagine what kind of danger you are exposing yourself if you drill a hole in the wall, not knowing exactly where the supply wire passes.

Wiring Wiring Modes

So, the wiring diagram in a panel apartment or a private country house has already been developed. Now you need to determine the features of the installation. They consist in the choice of one of the types:

1. open;
2. hidden.

As the name implies, when choosing an open variant, the wiring will be on the surface of the wall, ceiling and so on. Hidden installation - a complete "masking" of wires and power cables in the walls, under the sheets of plasterboard, over the hanging ceiling.

Features of open wiring

Immediately it is necessary to distinguish the main advantages and disadvantages of these types of installation. The first is an irreproachable option in terms of service. If the wiring diagram is not professionally developed by your own hands, at any time it may be necessary to intervene, for example, replacing any section of the wire with a more massive one with a larger cross-section. Just imagine that for this it will be necessary to disrupt the wallpaper section, to break the layer of plaster. This can be avoided by using a neat plastic box that is nailed to the wall while holding the wire inside. Of course, the appearance will be somewhat spoiled.

If the installation of a wiring in a private house is carried out by wooden walls, it is best to avoid flush mounting, since wood is a fire hazard material that can easily ignite in the case of wires. You can resort to partial masking of the wires in the cable duct of a modern plastic skirting board. However, there is no need to overdo it, because the joint placement of power and lighting wires is unacceptable. Between them there should be a gap of about 2 mm. Therefore, two streams of electricity of different power are better divided into groups.

Features of the hidden wiring

When concealed installation   "Punctures" in the calculations and laying of wires are unacceptable at all, but the aesthetics "off scale". The second version of the wiring layout will completely hide it in the wall structure or, for example, the ceiling.

The hidden scheme of wiring installation, in addition to aesthetics, has some requirements. Thus, all wires must have a sufficiently thick insulating layer, which will prevent mechanical damage to the metal part. Otherwise, the replacement of the wiring will result in a fairly large amount of money and the time spent on new repairs.

If the wiring is laid in a room with a high level of humidity, for example in a bath, sauna or pool, then with hidden installation it is better to choose wires with a PVC sheath that will prevent water from entering the wires.

Preparatory work

The design of electrical wiring in a private house is the basis of all further works. Installation - this is the final stage, however, it is no less responsible than drawing up the scheme. Therefore, before drilling grooves in the walls or nailing the box you need to do some preparation:

1. The parameters of the developed scheme are systematically and accurately applied on the surface of walls, floor and ceiling - marking out, punching holes, preparing places for the installation of distribution boxes, junkets, sockets, switches.
2. The exact calculation of the required amount of electrical equipment and consumables is made. In no case is it worth to buy the wires "back to back" with the available distances - there must always be some stock.

Optimal "purchase"

Now proceed directly to the calculation of the required amount of electrical equipment. With the opening and distribution board everything is clear - 1 introductory and 1 or 2 distribution (depending on the number of floors in the house). Circuit breakers are also calculated by the number of available wiring lines. But on the wires, switches and sockets it is worthwhile to dwell in more detail.

The length of the wires is determined after marking the walls for the following reasons:

1. The distance between the shield and also from the boxes to the outlets and switches is measured. For each joint, it is worth adding at least 100 mm of stock on each side so that you can accurately and conveniently place the wires in the junction box without pulling them or breaking them.
2. In the places of connection of outlets and switches there should also be a small reserve - about 50-150 mm (depending on the convenience of placement).
3. If the wires pass through the corner of the room, then it is necessary to provide a compensation loop that will prevent tension and wire breakage as a result of deformation of the house structure when the foundation dries and subsides. The minimum supply of wire per loop is 100 mm.

Now a little about the outlet. Form the requirements in the list of recommendations:

1. As noted above, the sockets should be located as close as possible to stationary household appliances. At least, for every 10 square meters of an ordinary living room you need to place 2 sockets. Even better, if they are not single, but double: one - for a TV and some hair dryer, and the second - for a computer or laptop. If the amount of electrical equipment is more, then more outlets will be needed.
2. In the kitchen, you need 1 larger outlet (if in the house of an electric stove), one for a refrigerator, one for an electric kettle, and the rest, if necessary, 1-2 for switching on a food processor, a mixer, etc., and 1 for a reserve.
3. The bathroom can be useful for a permanent outlet for connecting a washing machine, and another - for a hairdryer, a curling iron, and so on.
4. Be sure when planning the number of outlets, consider the probability of moving furniture in the room.

As for the switches, with them things are much easier - there will be enough one for each room, if the lamp is one. If there are several of them, then you can use a double or a built-in variant.

Safety devices - RCDs

If in your home you will lay electrical wiring with your own hands, the circuit of its connection must necessarily include an RCD, or protective connection devices. They provide safe operation of any electrical equipment, in particular, water-related - washing machines, shower cabins, dishwashers and water heaters. The principle of operation of such a device is simple - it differentiates the value of the current in the phase and zero wire. Under normal operation, the current difference is zero. If an abnormal situation occurs, a leakage to the ground wire may occur, resulting in an automatic disconnection of the circuit. Do not disregard this device because of its cost, since it can save human life.

Replacement of electrical wiring

Very often, it is not only necessary to lay the wiring in the new house, but also to replace it during the overhaul. In this case, you can observe a depressing picture, when the insulation of the wires became very hard and ready to crumble from a simple touch. Therefore, it is better to replace all the wires without exception, and also to reconnect the contacts in the sockets and switches (this is often not discussed, because you really want to change the old socket to the modern one, which is both comfortable and beautiful). Quality wiring will work very long, so both during replacement and initial installation do not save on the wires - to change them is much more difficult than the outlet or switch.

Power supply.

The project of electricity supply of a residential house is designed on the basis of:

1. Technical specifications of the customer;

2. Contracts;

3. Architectural planning and design project of a residential building,

4. Normative documents acting on the territory of the Russian Federation:

PUE 2002. "Rules for the installation of electrical installations", edition 7;

GOSTs Р50571 "Electrical installations of buildings";

SNIP 23-05-95 "Natural and artificial lighting";

NPB246-97 «Rules fire safety   In Russian federation".

The scope of the project includes electric lighting of premises and power electrical equipment (sockets). According to the composition of the electric consumers envisaged, the projected residential house corresponds to the housing of the 2nd category. According to a one-line scheme, the one-time load of a residential house is 16.75 kW. The total claimed capacity of the apartment is 27.25 kW. The demand coefficient is 0.62. Considering design load, the input into the residential house is designed three-phase and is performed at a voltage of 380 V 50 Hz with a deadly grounded neutral.

To distribute electricity to consumers in a residential building, a switchboard SHCHR and a floor apartment board individual manufacture. The single-line scheme is shown in Fig. In order to provide additional fire safety at the entrance to the SCB panel, after the water machine, a protective shutdown device (RCD) with a set point of leakage current of 300 mA is installed.

The organization of electricity metering for the projected residential building is envisaged in the existing street switchboard by a counter of a double active energy tariff, three-phase, direct-flow, type is specified 380/220 V, 5-50A. All outlets are selected in accordance with the requirements of the PUE clause 7.1.49.

In the design of the place of installation of lamps, sconces, boxes for the hanging of chandeliers, sockets and wiring accessories are recommendatory in nature and specified by the Customer depending on the interior solutions. The choice of luminaires should be made depending on the purpose and environment of the room. The minimum degree of protection of luminaires and sockets, installed in the premises of bathrooms and bathrooms, must be at least IP44.

The electrical wiring of the outlet and power network is carried out in corrugated PVC pipes with a cable with copper conductors of the grade ВВГнг not less than 2.5 mm. sq. m. in strobes of building designs of walls.

Wiring lighting network is carried out in corrugated PVC pipes with a cable with copper veins VVGng-ls in the stitches of building structures of walls, ceilings and behind the false ceiling.

Concealed wiring should be replaceable, with the possibility of replacing the cable, as well as access to the branches and electrical installation products. The electrical wiring pipes must have a fire safety certificate and be securely attached to the ceilings, walls and partitions. When designing, it was taken into account that the building structures of a residential building are fireproof.

Connection, branching and termination of cores of wires and cables should be made by means of crimping, welding, soldering or clamping (screw, bolt, etc.)

To ensure easy identification of the wiring harnesses by colors, in accordance with clause 2.1.31 of the UEU 7th edition, the project accepts conductors:

Black, brown and red colors for the designation of phase conductors (L1, L2, L3)

Blue - to indicate the zero conductor (N),

Yellow-green - to indicate the protective conductor (PE) /

The height of installation of electrical equipment and wiring products from the level of the clean floor is: switches of electric lighting - 0.9 m; Outlets - 0.3 m; distribution board - 1.5 m. The places and height of the points of supply of the group network to the current receivers are specified in accordance with the specific types of equipment used. In accordance with GOST R 50571.2-96, PUE chap. 7 in the draft adopted:

Type of grounding system - TN-S;

Types of systems of current-carrying conductors: from a street board to a switchboard, a five-wire distribution board. The house network is three-wire.

In order to protect people from electric shock, all open conductive parts of electrical installation that can be energized as a consequence of insulation failure must be grounded by attaching them to the protective conductor PE. For this purpose, separate conductors are used - the fifth or third conductor of the supply network, which is connected to the main protective conductor - the PE bus of the switchboard of the switchboard. When grounding, refer to SNiP 3.05.06-85 section "Earthing devices" and SP31-110-2003 section "Grounding (zeroing) and protective measures of safety", as well as PUE. 7, chapter 1.7. Sockets should have a closing socket device.

For bathrooms and shower cabins, an additional potential equalization system is provided, which is realized by connecting the metal bodies of baths, showers, pallets and pipes to the equipotential bonding box (PSC), which, in accordance with GOST 50571.11-96, is installed in the bath and shower area. The connection of the PCU to the PE busbar of the house board is carried out using copper conductors of 6 mm cross-section. sq. m. (a cable of grade ВВГнг 1х6). From the PMC to the electrical equipment (protective contacts) and external conductive parts pVC pipes, made by cable of grade ВВГнг 1х2,5. Electrical equipment installed permanently in sanitary warehouses must also be connected to the equipotential bonding system with a copper conductor (BBNng 1x2.5) laid in corrugated PVC pipes.

Electrical equipment and materials accepted for installation, including foreign production, and similar in return for those specified in the project, must be certified in the GOST RF Certification System, as well as in the field of fire safety in accordance with NPB246-97 (in accordance with the List approved by the Main Administration of the Ministry of Internal Affairs of the Russian Federation ) and correspond technical specifications, specified in the project, without impairing the quality. All electrical installation work must be carried out by qualified personnel licensed to manufacture these works, in compliance with the current standards of electrical and radiation safety and SNiP, as well as safety.

Format dwg

FROM electrical installation works   in the private sector in our country is rather bad than good. For most electricians, protecting people from electric shock, and property from a fire, to great regret does not mean anything. At the same time, the impression is that ordinary users were skipping physics lessons at school and completely do not understand what is electricity. But they very well believe in marketing tricks and happily attack "branded" automation, rejecting any other.

I propose step by step to understand all the issues of electricity supply to a private country house with the example of single-phase input. Also this guide can be applied to the use in the apartment. Immediately, I note that my solution of particular nodes is the optimal balance between functionality and price, but without compromising security!

I hope there is no need to retell a full course of physics and explain what an alternating electric current is. We also omit the moments how this electric current appeared on the power station and through the step-up transformer got into the power line. I will only note the important nuance that the entire electricity supply system in Russia is three-phase. Single-phase voltage   220 volts in your outlet is only a phase voltage in one of the three phases. And the line voltage will be 380 volts. This circumstance should be taken into account in view of such a phenomenon as "phase skewing", which nevertheless is relevant only with the old wiring, not designed for modern loads.

2. So, the step-down transformer in the SNT. A high voltage of 10 kV comes on three wires. Further diverges 4 wires (3 phase and one zero conductor) through SNT. In the photo you see a modern transformer and bends in the form of CIP wires. At the moment, air lines in our SNT are undergoing modernization.

3. With a single-phase input, two conductors are connected to each consumer: phase and zero. In the photo you can see the old aluminum wires   on the support nearest to the house. The tap to the house has already been made using a CIP wire. Particular attention is paid to the fact that all air line supports must have a grounding of the zero conductor (right upper photo). This is necessary in order to exclude emergency situations, such as a "zero break". In this case, you should pay special attention to your own grounding in the absence of repeated grounding on the intermediate supports, otherwise in an emergency your own grounding may be unique for the whole village.

4. Closer to the point. The last section of the air line from the nearest post to the building is stretched by the CIP wire, in our case 2х16. Stands for self-supporting insulated wire, it is aluminum with a cross section of 16 mm². For ease of installation and laying in place of the anchorage with the help of special clamps (wire SIP means the installation of the line under tension, at special terminals the nut is not under tension, and also has a rupture thread guaranteeing the necessary tightening force) passes into the VVG section of at least 10 mm² . It is in this form that two wires enter the lead-in shield. In the shield we have an introductory bipolar machine and an overvoltage limiter (always on the final support during air entry), which will protect the network when lightning strikes the phase conductor of the overhead line. It is connected in front of the machine to the phase conductor. Here in the shield there is a connection of the grounding strictly up to the input automaton. We are considering the TN-C-S grounding scheme, since the TT system is still designed for mobile buildings, rather than permanent buildings, and it has its own characteristics for security requirements. Disadvantages of the TN-C-S system proper installation   no. Even if you go deeper into this topic, if you make a TT, it will be only your final section, while the whole air line from the transformer will be TN-C.

5. Mandatory grounding. Three corners with a wall of 50 mm (steel thickness of 5 mm), 2 meters in length, are driven into the ground by a sledge hammer and welded together in a triangle shape. To the wall of the house there is a steel strip with a width of 40 mm. The last meter to the shield is made with a copper conductor of at least 16 mm². Underestimating the cross-section is absolutely impossible, in case of any accident on the line, your grounding can become the only one for the entire line / street / block. Switching in the shield is as follows. The combined PEN (Protected Earth + Neutral) conductor from the overhead line is divided into two buses into N and PE. After that, the input automaton is switched, next to it is an overvoltage limiter. From the machine line goes to electric meter. Directly into the house goes three-wire copper wire   with a cross-section of each conductor of 6 mm². The phase and zero conductors come from a meter grounding from the corresponding bus.

6. We pass to internal wiring   at home. I repeat that when designing electrical network   the principle of reasonable sufficiency. Of course, it was possible to make 2 times more outlets and to increase the number of lines of force by the same amount, but I think that this is absolutely not necessary. Explanations to the scheme: red squares - junction boxes, yellow circles - lamps. Blue indicates the wiring in the screed, red in the walls. Everywhere in the house is used only lED lightening   (the total consumption of all lamps included simultaneously does not hold up to 300 watts). The lighting is powered from the power line to a specific room, I do not see the practical need for separation, besides, it significantly increases the amount of installation work. The diagram shows all existing consumers in the house. If you have questions, ask.

7. So, let's get started. This is a temporary electrician for the period of construction work. We pass to the laying of the lines of force. A total of 10 of them. Some of them will go along the walls, some in the floor in the corrugation.

8. Let's start with the floor lines. We use a NYM cable with a cross-section of 3x2.5 mm² in corrugation (gray corrugation does not burn at all, black does not support combustion and has protection against ultraviolet radiation. In a screed, it is not particularly important what to use, it is not so easy to find a strong gray, and I would trample soft preparatory work). The frequently asked question is why is it not the VVG? In terms of performance, they are completely identical, but the NYM has the advantage of triple insulation, while it has the drawback of a non-UV-resistant shell. Therefore, for open wiring, VVG is preferable. Otherwise, NYM is more convenient, including because of its round shape (a round VVG also exists, but it is extremely difficult to find it). In the corrugation with a diameter of 16 mm round NYM stretches elementary, which is extremely convenient. For memory it is worth to document the lines of laying the lines on the floor, although nowhere else but the door thresholds there is even a theoretical probability that you need to drive something into the concrete floor screed.

9. Corner of the kitchen area. Aerated concrete is simply an excellent material for processing - you can even use a screwdriver to wall the walls. So, we drill the holes for the mounting and junction boxes. Wire in the walls of NONGORYUCHYh grounds is laid in the form in which it is. No corrugations are required. All attention to the trails. Power lines are laid only at right angles. The main line runs along the floor at a height of 20-30 cm, then to the outlets and switches it rises strictly VERTICALLY. Diagonal gasket is prohibited and risky to get into the wire, for example when driving a nail into the wall (and so you know for sure that you can not drive nails exactly under the outlets and above the switches). The cable is attached to the wall using plastic round staples (two holes are drilled, a bracket is inserted).

10. The floor screed is flooded. The question at what stage to lay the cable on the wall is solely from your personal preferences. Someone first plaster the walls, then make the stroba, lay the cable and seal the stroba back. I prefer to do the wiring before plastering the walls. This method may seem inconvenient because will require increased attention during the plastering works to the points with the mounting boxes (it is necessary to shut them up and then pick them up). Pay attention to the left corner - all the commutations on the pass-through lines of the outlets are not made in the podzheetniki, but in separate junction boxes.

11. I will repeat with the type of wires. NYM is the ideal and versatile cable. The cross-section is selected according to the load. Usually use a cable 3x2, 5 mm². For powerful consumers, such as electric the hob   may require a wire with a cross-section of 4 mm². For lighting lines where LEDs are used in my case (the maximum power consumption in the largest room is 80 watts), I use a cable PPPP 2x1.5 mm2 (there is no need for grounding in the lighting network, it has nowhere to connect). In general, the regulations prohibit the use of PPP because the technical conditions allow underestimating the cross-section of the conductors to 30% in comparison with the standards, and in case of general economy, this can cause a fire everywhere due to the exceeding of the permissible load. In my case, my maximum load   more than 30 times less than can safely pass the cable with a cross-section of 1.5 mm². Therefore, a larger section is not required, and for installation of the lighting line this cable is most convenient. Yes, please note that for fixed wiring use only a rigid cable with a mono-housing. Dashboards and junction boxes are mounted in the wall on a building plaster (alabaster), as the quickest drying solution.

12. Now directly the stage of assembly and installation of power lines. It will take several convenient tools. The topmost is used for crimping the tips multicore cables, for example PV3 (currently replaced by POGV), which are used when assembling the electrical panel. The middle tool is useful for quickly stripping the cable sheath NYM - clamped, cranked, pulled. Below is a simple tool for stripping the final veins, not quite convenient, but for one-time work more than enough.

13. It is still necessary to have such a thing as an indicator screwdriver. There are two varieties of them. The original device with a neon lamp without a power source is able to detect only the phase voltage. This is a simple Chinese device with a power supply has more advanced functionality and allows you to determine not only the phase (it is important to determine the phase can not be touched with the fingers of the screwdriver cap), but also the integrity of the line, as well as the place of wire breakage. On the right is the initial blank for the electrical shield. When switching it is important to distribute everything in such a way that it is intuitively clear where everything is.

14. At once I will note the nuance to which the "experts" will surely find out - the zero conductor should be blue, and I have it black, since in our tree under the name of Moscow there is never anything in stock at the moment when I need it (because the shield obviously single-phase, a clear catastrophe and the error of confusing zero with the second phase is not here). For switching in the electrical panel I use wire PV3 (it is possible to take a modern POGV) with a cross-section of 6 mm². Also, it will need special NSTHI tips (the tip of the pin bush insulated), they are needed in order to assemble together stranded wire   before switching under the screw (veins spread out - there may be bad contact). It is also convenient to use special single-pole and bipolar buses (on the right photo in the background) to connect a number of circuit breakers.

15. Switching in junction boxes is as follows. WAGO 2273 terminals (on the left) are used on conductors with a cross-section of 3x1.5 mm² (why and why - later) and WAGO 222 (right) on conductors with a cross-section of 3x2.5 mm². Always follow the color marking   conductors. WAGO 222 series is probably the best option, if there is no desire to work with soldering and crimping.

16. Installation of sockets and switches. I really like Schneider Electric products, the Unica series. Switches on modern standards should be turned down. Switching up is an old school since the time of the knife switches, the inclusion of which up was due to their design. Unica switches are turned down, this is their nominal position.

17. Switching double sockets   standing next to next. The power cable comes to the terminals of one outlet, and then a branch is made to the adjacent one. The rules of good tone prescribe for the installation of sockets to connect the phase conductor to the right.

18. We return to the electric shield. Just want to pay attention - always take a shield with a very large margin, more than just will not. I kind of made it to the minimum, and almost all 36 positions (3 rows of 12 positions) were occupied. Be sure to leave a supply line of lines of force equal to a minimum of one and a half height of the shield. On the right you can see the first version of switching, and in fact this is the moment when the house was switched from a temporary electrical circuit   to a constant. In the process, a couple of consumers appeared and the scheme was slightly refined.

So, I tell in detail what, how and why. Go!

A few words about the components of the scute.

A circuit breaker or just an automaton. Provides protection against short circuit, and also provides protection electrical wiring. Hence it contains two releases - electromagnetic and thermal, respectively. The first is triggered in the event of a short circuit on the line, the response time is determined by the time-current characteristic, which in any case is several times higher than the current rating of the machine. Thermal release is a bimetallic plate with different coefficients of thermal expansion and is designed to protect electrical wiring. It is in accordance with the cross-section of the cable and the sockets used that the nominal value of the machine is selected. The most popular mistake to put on a power line with a wire 2,5 mm² automatic to 25A from the calculation that the cable will withstand. No you can not. And the reason is rosettes. Conventional outlets are rated for current up to 16A. Therefore, this should be the value of the machine. And in general as a whole it is better to be reinsured and reduce the denomination of the machine, that is it will be able to protect the wiring from overheating or, even worse, a fire.

RCD is a protective device that fixes the leakage current. The simplest mechanical device is a differential current transformer. If we explain on the fingers, then the amount of current that "came" along the phase conductor should be equal to the amount of current that "left" along the zero conductor. If the "left" is less than "came" - there is a leak, protection works. If there is a ground, the RCD will work as soon as there is a dangerous voltage on the housing of the device, if there is no ground, the RCD will work as soon as the person touches it (it will be hit with a little shock). From this it follows that the RCD must always be used, and the presence of grounding only increases the level of safety. At the same time, it is absolutely impossible to do homemade grounding in an apartment in the absence of it, the consequences can be very sad. About the RCD, it should be noted that it needs to be protected from the short-circuit current itself, so after it, there should be an automaton (s) with a lower nominal value than the RCD itself. The nominal value of the RCD itself implies on which maximum current   it is calculated, it is better to focus on a 20-30% margin from a constant load. The simplest method   check the operation of the RCD and the correct earthing - connect the neutral and ground conductors in the socket. The RCD must be switched off immediately.

To sum up: the circuit breaker protects the wiring and equipment, the RCD protects the person. Still there are difa automats (here and earlier I use the terminology that has developed in our country, although it is not quite accurate), a device that combines the functions of an automaton and an RCD.

Now go to the dashboard:

We start from the upper left corner. Here comes the cable 3x6 mm² from the street shield. Introductory RCD with a leakage current of 300 mA. The people are called "fireproof". It is used in combination with an RCD for a smaller leakage current in the first place to ensure selectivity in the event of a trip (in the first place, the "lower" RCD will knock out), and secondly to increase fault tolerance. Next to it is the ABB C11 meter used by me exclusively for the technical metering of electricity (to report to you the figures of consumption of the air heat pump and not to run for it to the street shield). After it there are two bipolar automatic devices that also perform the role of knife switches. The left, with a rating of 40A is used to de-energize the entire electrical system of the house except for an air heat pump. Right, respectively, controls the air heat pump). To the right there is a thermostat of the anti-icing system (20 meters of heating cable in the gutter and drains) and three automata: for it and two lines of street outlets (which in turn are powered from one RCD from the next row).

Second row. In the left corner there is a common grounding bus for all lines. Pay attention to the commutation. It is not necessary to lay wires behind racks, it is better to conduct them as openly as possible. Further, we have a line of RCDs in the amount of 6 pcs, over which all consumers in the house are evenly divided. The leakage current of all RCDs is 30 mA, although ideally for a bathroom it is worthwhile to use an RCD with a leakage current of 10 mA.

Third row. Consumer end machines on lines. On the left, right and below, there are corresponding zero buses leaving from a specific RCD for each line. They must be separate, otherwise there will be no sense in separating the RCDs by separate lines. The automatons are grouped according to the type of load.

How to choose the rated current of the machine? As we have explained above, the machine's rating is chosen based on the conductor section (copper conductor cross-section 2.5 mm² withstands 25A long-term load) and switching devices (household outlets are rated for current up to 16A). Translate amperes into watts all know how to multiply by voltage (220 volts).

20. Close-up of the lower row of machines. Single-core cables   are directly connected to the screws, the stranded ones must first be pressed with a tip. There are many unreasonable claims of "experts" to IEK products and very vain. This is an excellent option for the ratio of price / quality. They are made in China, Russia and Turkey. And they perform their function no worse than the "racially-faithful" ABB and Legrand. Do not believe me? Ask real electricians, not charlatans, who are vparivayuschih more expensive. The whole of Moscow after the recent modernization is electrified on IKE automation, of course, in a millionth scale, the quantitative statistics of failures will be higher than in the case of other brands, which are used in the residential fund by several orders of magnitude less. What's wrong with IKE? And nothing that can harm a person. The RCD or the machine after operation will simply not turn back on and will require replacement. That's all.

21. Assembled flap assembly.

22. And layout on lines with signatures. Simple and functional. The colors are grouped by lines. If an accident occurs, for example, on a line with a pump, only it will be disconnected, and the power supply of the whole house will not be affected. To many, such an amount of RCD may seem redundant. Indeed, a sufficient minimum is one input RCD for the entire facility with a leakage current of 30 mA. Remember - the RCD must always be. Even if your apartment does not have a modernized input and uses a TN-C connection with two wires. Yes, you do not have a separate ground, and the RCD does not work out the situation of phase leakage to the body of the device without the "help" of a person. But the RCD protects the person.

23. Well, the final types of sockets in the premises. Let me remind you that on the outgoing lines the machine should not exceed the nominal value of 16A (for me, for example, the line to the bedroom is made with NYM cable 3x1.5 mm² (I do not see the need to include more than 2 kW there), and therefore the machine on this line has a nominal value current 10A.

24. And about the lighting of a couple of words. Everywhere in the house are inexpensive lamps for the cartridge GU10. Of lED Light Bulbs   I ordered several models from China for tests, and also took "Russian China" under the brands Camelion and Woltra. At the last price of about 230 rubles per lamp - I will honestly say that buying something from China is pointless. All samples at a price of less than 150 rubles apiece have a serious variation in color temperature, not to mention too low (Ra<70) индексе цветопередачи.

Everything that concerns electrical networks is described in detail and understandably in

Designing electrical wiring in a private house is quite a troublesome business, but it is quite feasible even without the availability of special knowledge. It is enough to arrive at a balanced approach to this issue. Well, our tips given in this article will allow you to step-by-step create your own wiring project for any private house.

The scheme of the electrical network at home

Any development of the electric network project begins with the determination of the total power of the consumer, in this case our home, and its power scheme. And if the total power of the consumer in our case is determined by the power supply company, which establishes a consumption limit, we can design the scheme of the internal electric network independently.

So:

• The wiring in a private house is as follows. On the outside wall of the house, the power supply company installs an introductory machine and a counter. The connection of these electrical devices is also performed by the power supply company.
• But after the meter, entering the house, connecting to the switchboard and wiring around the house, we already do it ourselves. And here we have the right to choose a convenient power supply scheme.
• Usually the scheme of power supply of the house looks as follows. Cable or CIP wire from the meter is connected directly to the bus of our switchboard. From these tires, separate power supply groups are fed. Each group has its own power circuit breaker installed on the phase conductor. The zero and protective conductor of each group must not have switching devices.

Note! A neutral wire of separate groups can have a switching device, only in case of connection via an RCD. The RCD can be installed as a separate group, or as an introductory for all groups. The issue of choosing the location of the RCD is not standardized by the rules of the EEI and remains a contentious issue. But based on the operational experience and personal opinion of the author of these lines, we advise you to set them separately for each group.

• Then the wire or cable from each group machine is mounted to the junction boxes. Each group can have from one to several junction boxes.
• From distribution boxes electrical wiring is distributed to end users - outlets and switches.

Designing an electrical network at home

Based on the above general scheme of electricity supply to the house, for the design of the electrical network, we first need to calculate the number of groups and distribute the load on them. In order to do this we need to determine the way of wiring installation and to calculate the possible load of our customers.

Choosing the Wiring Method

Let's start by choosing the method of installation of the electrical network. The electrical wiring of a private house can be made in an open and hidden way. And not only the number of groups, the cross-section of wires and the total cost of installation depend on the correct choice, but also the appearance of the whole house.

So:

• First of all, we note that any kind of wiring installation can be realized in the house of any design and from any building materials. The only issue is the cost of installation works. We will not give the installation rates for different types of wiring in different conditions. You can find this information in other articles on our website. Let us dwell only on generally accepted norms.
• Open wiring has found wide application in houses of combustible materials. First of all, this tree, CIP panels and other types of combustible building materials. For such houses, the price of installing open wiring is often much lower. The concealed wiring will require considerable financial injections, and its installation is laborious.
• The hidden wiring is used mainly in the houses of their brick, foam blocks and other non-flammable materials. After all, this kind of wiring makes it possible to completely hide the engineering networks, while at the same time it does not make any special demands in houses of non-combustible materials.

Calculation of the total load at home

At the next stage of the design, you need to calculate the total load for the house and for individual electrical receivers. This is necessary for the subsequent formation of groups.

• To do this, we first need to determine the number of electrical points and their maximum power consumption. This often becomes the most serious problem for non-professionals, but de facto there is nothing difficult.
• Each outlet or switch in the house is mounted for a certain electrical appliance or a group of electrical appliances. It is enough for us to choose the most powerful of them and further calculate for it.
• The power of the appliance can be seen in the passport of the device. It may also contain an instruction manual. If you do not have the wrong one, then the approximate power you can find in our table.

• But in most cases, the power of the devices is indicated in Watts, and we need to translate it into Amperes. To do this, you can use Ohm's law. In general, this is a simplified version of the formula, but for our purposes this is quite enough. Based on this formula, we have obtained that an electrical appliance with a capacity of 1 kW for a 220V network consumes an electric current of about 4.5A.

Load distribution by groups

After we have calculated the total workload for the house and for each individual electric point, we can start creating groups directly.

So:

• According to Clause 9.6 of BCH 59 - 88, the rated power of circuit breakers for supplying the group lines of sockets and the lighting network shall not exceed 16A. Starting from this point, we distribute our loads to separate groups.

Note! For the power of powerful electric receivers, such as an electric oven, the installation of group automatic machines with a rating of 25A is allowed.

• The distribution of the load in groups should be based on their location and type of load. So often, the group lines of the lighting network are separated from the power supply groups of the outlets. But this is not mandatory, and in some cases it is not advisable.

• It's also worth remembering that wiring in a private house is not easy to mount. Therefore, you should not have different receivers of the same group in different parts of the house. Usually it is 1 - 2 interconnecting rooms.
• Another aspect that should be taken into consideration is 7.2 BCH 59 - 88. It requires connection of outlets in the kitchen and in the living rooms to different groups. Quite often in the rosette group kitchens include a rosette in the bathroom.

Note! Sockets in the bathroom can only be installed if there is one in the group in which the socket of the RCD is installed. In this case, according to PUE, the rated leakage current for such a switching device is normalized by a leakage current of 30 mA.

• As a result, we can get from 3 to 7 groups, depending on the total load. Some can have more than 10 groups. But here everything depends on the size of the house and the number of electrical appliances. But according to the technical conditions, the opening machine, which is installed on the house, rarely exceeds the values ​​in 25A sometimes 40A.
• This should be borne in mind when dividing the load into groups by one's own hands. After all, the probability that all electrical appliances will work simultaneously is quite low. Therefore, it is necessary to approach this question soberly and to carry out the distribution in a more balanced manner, taking into account such factor as the utilization factor.

Choice of wiring

Before personally conducting electrical wiring in a private house, it is worthwhile to worry about calculating its cross-section. After all, its durability and fire safety depend on this factor. This question is especially relevant for houses made of combustible materials.

• According to clause 7.1.34 of the PUE in residential buildings, since 2001, only copper cables and wires should be used. Prior to this, aluminum wires were allowed, which can often be found in old houses.
• With regard to the cross-section of the wires, it should be selected based on the load on the group line. But in order not to make a lot of calculations and simplify the choice, one can start from the nominal parameters of group automata.
• In addition, when selecting the section of the wiring, the way of laying the wires should be considered. After all, heat transfer for wires laid in a hidden and open way is different. In this regard, although slightly, but depending on the load, their cross-section is different.
• The choice is made according to Table 1.3.4 of the PUE. In addition to the loads and the method of laying, it takes into account also such a parameter as the type of wire.

• But no matter how the wiring has been chosen in the private house itself, it should be remembered that the cross section should not be less than that given in Table. 7.1.1 PUE. For group lines, it must be at least 1.5 mm 2.

Conclusion

In this article we have given the main stages of designing an electrical network in a private house. As you can see there is nothing complicated, and the video on our site should alleviate this task even more. The main thing to approach this issue carefully and carefully, and you probably will succeed.