What is poured into the battery of the machine. Blog\u003e Twelve options to destroy the new battery and throw it in the dump.

The electrolyte in the battery is the environment in which chemical reactions occur that allow the accumulation of electrical energy and give it away.

Naturally, the uninterrupted operation of the battery (battery) and the life of the battery depend on the quality of the electrolyte. What do you need to know about the electrolyte?

In contact with

So, what are the indicators to evaluate the electrolyte and how to solve the problems associated with it? Consider in order.

Characteristics of electrolyte for automotive batteries

Electrolyte in automotive batteries is nothing more than a solution of concentrated sulfuric acid H2SO4 in distilled H2O water.

The acid of maximum concentration has a density of 1.84 g / cm³, but for the preparation of electrolyte, an aqueous solution of 1.40 g / cm³ is most often used. Dilution of H2SO4 with water leads to an extremely large release of heat. For the preparation of electrolytes, only special sulfuric acid for the battery, which has a high degree of purification, should be used. Requirements for it are regulated by GOST 667-73. Any impurities, even in small quantities, reduce the service life.

The most important indicator is the density of the electrolyte in the battery. It should be in the range from 1.07 to 1.30 g / cm³, which corresponds to a mass fraction of sulfuric acid in water from 28 to 40%. Indicators of electrolyte density in all reference books and instructions are always given given to a temperature of 15 ° C. If the temperature is different, a correction is made, according to the table below.

Table 1. Correction of density as a function of temperature

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Checking the electrolyte in the battery

This operation should be carried out twice a year - before the summer and winter season.

For verification, you will need:

• Device for determining the density of electrolyte - hydrometer (densimeter). It can be bought very inexpensively in any car dealer, and it will last for many years.
• Glass tube with a diameter of 5 mm, in its absence - a sheet of clean paper.

To find out how to check the electrolyte in a battery, you need to determine which indicators it is being tested for. The most important of these is density and level. How to check them?

• To check the density of the electrolyte, you must carefully unscrew the plugs of the battery (if it is serviced), dip the nozzle of the hydrometer into the electrolyte and, using a pear, collect such a volume of electrolyte in the flask so that the float of the hydrometer floats freely in it without touching the walls of the bulb.
• Measurements are made at an ambient temperature of about 20 ° C. The contact line of the electrolyte with a rod having a measuring scale will show the density of the electrolyte, which is best recorded.
• Measurements should be made in all banks. Density in them should not differ from each other by more than + - 0,02-0,03 g / cm³. the measured density eloquently indicates the level of charge of the battery, as can be seen from the table.

Table 2. Determination of the degree of charge of the battery

The table shows the values ​​at an ambient temperature of 20-25 ° C. If the density is insufficient, it is necessary to charge the battery, at which the density should increase.

The next important indicator that requires control is the level of electrolyte in the battery. It should be 10-15 mm above the plates.

To measure it, it is necessary to lower the glass tube perpendicularly to the bank of the battery until the lower end of the tube rests against the plate. Then plug the upper end of the finger and pull it out. The amount of water in the tube will show the level. If it is insufficient, distilled water is added to the jar. It is it that boils out when the electrolyte boils.

Add the electrolyte is not necessary in any case! Such an incorrect action can ruin the battery. If the tube is missing, you can put a piece of clean paper in the jar. By the level of its wetting, one can judge the level of the electrolyte.

Requirements for the density of electrolyte in different climatic zones

It is known that the electrolyte density in the accumulator in winter is better to have higher, since a denser electrolyte freezes at a lower temperature. In summer, the density is better to have lower, because the lower density contributes to a long life of the battery.

Experienced battery-holders are able to raise the density of the battery electrolyte by adding a correction solution of 1.4 g / cm³ or reduce it by adding distilled water.

However, motorists are not recommended to do this, because the wrong action will quickly put out of action an expensive battery. Therefore, for different climatic zones adopted averaged density, with which you can operate the battery all year round. These indicators are tabulated.

Table 3. Norms of electrolyte density AKB

In the event of anomalous frosts in the central and southern climatic region, it is better to remove the battery and place it in a warm room, where it is necessary to check the charge and, if necessary, charge it. A fully discharged battery with an electrolyte density of 1.10 g / cm³ can freeze already at -5 ° C. You need to know about this and take timely measures.

Preparation of electrolyte

In most cases, batteries are already sold with electrolyte and fully ready for use. But sometimes so-called dry-charged batteries are sold that require electrolyte filling. It is best for car enthusiasts to buy ready-made electrolyte of the required density for their climatic region, but it happens that the electrolyte has to be cooked by yourself.

What is required for this?

• Sulfuric acid with a density of 1.84 g / cm³ or 1.40 g / cm³ (which is preferable) in the required amount.
• Distilled water.
• Measured chemical dishes, in which you can accurately measure the volume of liquid.
• Clean glass, ebonite or polyethylene dishes, where the electrolyte will be prepared.
• Glass or ebonite stick for stirring.
• Means of protection: glasses, gloves.

During the preparation of electrolyte observe the following rules.

• Pour water into sulfuric acid is prohibited! This can lead to boiling, the appearance of water and acid splashes and as a result, severe chemical burns. You can pour only sulfuric acid into the water with a very thin stream.
• Pour the acid in small portions, and then stir the solution with a stick.

At the end, it is necessary to control the density with a hydrometer.
  When preparing the electrolyte, you should know how much electrolyte in the battery.

Different batteries of the most common capacity of passenger cars 55-60 A * h, it can vary from 2.6 to 3.7 liters. Therefore, to fill one battery, it is better to prepare 4 liters of electrolyte.

The amount of water and acid for preparing the desired electrolyte is summarized in the following table.

Table 4. The amount of distilled water, sulfuric acid or its solution of 1.40 g / cm³, necessary for the preparation of 1 liter of electrolyte of the desired density

Filling the electrolyte in the battery. Preparation for operation

The electrolyte is filled with a glass or polyethylene funnel and a glass mug to a level of 10-15 mm above the plates. After that, the battery is allowed to soak for 2 hours. Density may fall.

Solving possible problems

During the operation of the battery, problems may arise that require prompt resolution. The most typical are:

• During the winter frost, the electrolyte froze in the accumulator. In this case, it is necessary to remove the battery from the car, bring it into a warm room and leave it to thaw naturally within 24 hours.

  If the battery case is swollen and burst, then you can safely take the battery to the metal receiving points. To further exploitation it is not good. If the body is solid and the electrolyte is in place, then it should be charged with a small current of 1 A for a period of 2 days, periodically monitoring the density. If the density rises, the battery "takes" charge and there is a hope that it will last for a while.

• It happens that when the battery is fully discharged, the battery refuses to "take" the charge. This is expressed in the long absence of a change in density. The last hope to reanimate this battery is the replacement of the electrolyte in the battery.

  To do this, the old electrolyte is drained, the battery is washed with distilled water and a new electrolyte is poured out after a full discharge of water. After 2 hours, released to impregnate the plates, you can try to charge the battery with a small current of 0.5-1 A for a long time - up to two days. If the density of the electrolyte increases, then there is a hope that it will last for a while. Charge it should be until the density and voltage charge will not remain constant for 2 hours.

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conclusions

• The reliable and long battery life largely depends on the quality of the electrolyte.
• Density and electrolyte level should be monitored at least twice a year, before changing seasons.
• If the electrolyte level falls in the battery banks, only distilled water should be added.
• For filling dry-charged batteries it is better to use ready-made electrolyte of the required density from well-known manufacturers.
• Self-preparation of electrolyte should be done only in extreme cases, observing all safety rules, and using protective equipment.

The video details how to check the density of the electrolyte in the battery

Katka 05 Aug 2006

I sat down the battery. Has removed, has looked, 6 stoppers where fill electrolyte are not twisted, and are simply covered, near to stoppers all wet. The liquid in the battery is, but how much should it be there? how much to pour there under the vein or less? Should I fill the electrolyte? or distilled water? All the same, these 6 traffic jams when operating a car should be twisted? or just covered (the thread on them is to spin .When I charge the batteries, these plugs to unscrew? in the sense during charging, I have a charger.: huh: I understand that this is stupid, but vital.

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  Slayer 05 Aug 2006

Fill the dist. water to conceal the lead plates. Charge with unscrewed stoppers. It is also desirable to check the density

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  green97rus 06 Aug 2006

but just covered, next to the cork all wet. The liquid in the battery is, but how much should it be there? how much to pour there under the vein or less?

on the battery there are small marks, there is shown the level on which you have to fill the battery (distilled water), and then charge.

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  Sergey 07 Aug 2006

I sat down the battery. Has removed, has looked, 6 stoppers where fill electrolyte are not twisted, and are simply covered, near to stoppers all wet. The liquid in the battery is, but how much should it be there? how much to pour there under the vein or less? Should I fill the electrolyte? or distilled water? All the same, these 6 traffic jams when operating a car should be twisted? or just covered (thread on them to spin, when I'll charge the plugs to unscrew? in the sense while charging, I have a charger.: huh: I understand that this is stupid, but it's vital. Reply pliz not too lazy

Actually looking skoko splash. If the accumulator has sat down, it is necessary to add it, instead of water. There will be no more water from the water. If the battery is not under warranty, buy a new one.

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  Alex_34 07 Aug 2006

  Manufacturer?

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  Protva 07 Aug 2006

Explanatory recommendations Alex_34, quite agree with them.
  And it is necessary to check what kind of charging the generator gives. If there is a reload, o and will be wet and will boil continuously. And you'll ruin the AKB.

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  Asanov_KV 07 Aug 2006

let's start diagnosing: how many years AKB?
Manufacturer?
How did you sit down: all the night long the music on CD was heard on a picnic with the doors open and the lights on?
You can pour a dist. water in each jar to cover the plate by 1 cm and put on charge with a small current (no more than 5 amperes) hours for 10-12.
put on the charge - in about 20 minutes, look at all the banks are bubbles.
If any realty of the bank & is silent, & -th khan. This is the "home" method (without a trip to the electroplating). Try it.
If you can charge, you will leave before the winter, but the cold will most likely have to buy a new one.

I'll add:
if in any bank (this is what closes one cork and where the electrolyte splashes), a white coating can be seen on the iron, and even more flakes - the battery can be used for scrap. Sulfation is not treated. You can at least charge the charger.
If there is no sulfonation, then really add water, and only then, with full charge, vary in density - add electrolyte and suck water or vice versa.

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  Alex_34 07 Aug 2006

Protva, Asanov_KV - thanks for the additions. I hear about sulfanation for the first time. The girl still has uncovered questions:

All the same, these 6 traffic jams when operating a car should be twisted?
  YES
When will I charge the battery with these plugs to unscrew it?
  YES

For the girl, the lining is a fully or fairly sown battery without signs of sulphation and fur. damage is correctly charged so: for example, we have a battery with a capacity of 55Ah (ampere hours). So, it should be charged with a current of 5 A for 11 hours, even better with a smaller current for a greater amount of time.

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  Alex_34 07 Aug 2006

One more aspect: in Turkish and East European batteries in the middle of the top cover there is an eye, in the color of which & it is possible & to determine, requires the addition of water or a charge. Do not flatter yourself, the peephole shows the situation in one bank, not in the entire battery. And his testimony is not & average temperature over the hospital & quot ;. You need to watch each jar.

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  Sergey 07 Aug 2006

Electrolyte must be added only in the case when it exactly flowed out and not as little as in this case. The fact that around the plugs is wet, this is not an excuse for refilling the electrolyte.

This conclusion I made because the battery charging lamp was lit. Since when water boils away, it usually does not burn (charging), if the battery is normal. If there is no electrolyte, then there is no chemical reaction, and therefore charging is charging.

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  Protva 08 Aug 2006

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  Sergey 08 Aug 2006

Zbugz, the author of this topic nowhere is there any mention of a sun-burning lamp charging a charge. It's you, with some of your left car, I've probably mixed it up.

Shaitan!,!,!, This is all the drugs are to blame

  how much to add distilled water to the battery

Very often I'm asked a question about the car's battery, namely why does it need distilled water? For what it is generally flooded, what is the use of it or harm? Why do not we say the usual from the tap, what will happen? YES and generally how much it should be poured. As you can see, despite the prostate design issues are just a lot, and they are all related to this fluid. To be honest, people who have little understanding of the electrochemical liquid of the battery, such questions will not be asked, but for beginners this information will be very useful, so read on ...

To begin with, a small definition.

  Is an obligatory part of an electrochemical liquid, simply an electrolyte, which performs a very important role, namely, it creates the composition of the desired density and properties. If there was no water in the composition, the battery did not work, as needed.

What does it mean? YES it's simple - electrolyte consists of 35% and 65% of distilled water. If you pour just sulfuric acid, then its "rabid" concentration would simply melt everything (albeit not immediately, but she would have done it for sure). Water lowers the concentration to the desired limit, then the acid begins to work in creation, not destruction. Also at this ratio, the processes of accumulation of electricity in the electrolyte, during the charge, begin to occur. What then allows you to spend this charge.

What is distilled water?

And really, what is it? To be honest, it's a question of the 6th-7th grade of the general education school, where they begin to delve deeply into physics and chemistry.

This is nothing more than just "H2O" - that is, a pure water composition, only two hydrogen atoms and one oxygen. There are no impurities and salts - absolute purity.

If you answer the question - why you can not fill the battery with ordinary water from the "tap," the answer is very simple:

The composition that flows with us from the tap, it is difficult to call "distiller" because in the composition not only the notorious H2O, but also a bunch of all impurities, especially salts, lime (in low concentrations), chlorine, etc.

If it is poured into the battery, it is inevitable that these impurities will settle on the lead plates of the battery, which will lead to a decrease in the battery capacity. Thus, ordinary water will simply ruin your battery, so you can not pour it.

Why this ratio?

Now many people can ask the question - why exactly this ratio of acid and distilled water? THEN there is one mass fraction of acid and two mass fractions of water.

This is done for several reasons:

• Acids should be enough, because when the battery is discharged it is consumed, the density of the electrolyte falls - the salts are allocated to the plates. And with the charge on the contrary, water is consumed, the acid density increases. If the acid is not enough, then the charge-discharge process will not be so effective. Therefore, now the density of many batteries is approximately 1.27 g / cm3.
• If the acid is not enough, the electrolyte will simply freeze at minus temperatures. A discharged battery can turn into an ice sheet at -3 to -5 degrees.
• If you pour a lot of acid, much more (for example, 2 mass fractions, and water one mass fraction), then it can adversely affect the plates. There will be more salts settling, and also such concentration will destroy the plates faster.

This combination is derived by experience, through a sufficiently large number of tests.

Why is water poured into the battery, not the electrolyte?

Also, everything is simple - when working, the battery warms up (also the heat occurs in the summer, in the heat), the charges can boil with charges. In these moments, distilled water evaporates from the battery - this is its normal state (evaporation when heated, simply turns into steam). But the acid remains, it is not "volatile" - the concentration of acid increases accordingly, and the concentration of water drops. The density can grow to 1.4 g / cm3. In order to bring the electrolyte inside the battery in a normal state, it is necessary to replenish this evaporated water, so we add it, the acid is in the right proportion.

If you add the electrolyte, then you just mix, say - 1.4 and 1.27 (which you bought) and you will get about 1.33 g / cm3 - which is already a lot! We remember the sedimentation of salts and the destruction of plates.

So you just need to add distilled water, for the right density, and not electrolyte! When mixed, it forms the density required for work.

Remember this rule! In fairness, water was added only to the serviced batteries, because the evaporation there is simply huge. But maintenance-free batteries do not require such careful attention, because there it is in a sealed enclosure - the liquid evaporates, rises and then again precipitates - the cycle is closed.

How much water to add to the battery?

As we have already figured out, if a maintenance-free battery - then almost not how much, you can roll for at least five years and never look into it - it's normal! But if your battery is serviced, that is, the tops are unscrewed from above, you need to constantly monitor the level.

How much distilled water to add a difficult question - because in each case, it will be its value. It can fluctuate from, because the more AKB is, the more electrolyte in it, and therefore water, you need to add more.

I advise you always to have a liter bottle in my car (on my old cars it left me for 1.5 - 2 months - in summer, in winter for 3 - 4 months) - remember if the electrolyte level fell and your banks are bare, this is a critical condition, need to urgently understand the level to close the platinum. Otherwise, they can heat up and crumble.

A short video of what level should be.

If you do not know what volume of electrolyte your battery has, there's everything on the shelves.

In conclusion, I want to say - remember distilled water is a kind of guarantee for the long operation of your battery, without it you can not work! This must be understood, when evaporating from cans, we necessarily add, and not ordinary tap water, namely "distillate" - then your battery will last for a long time, all the manufacturer's stated time.

That's it, read our AUTOBLOG.

Overcharge. Most likely, this is due to a malfunction of the control relay at the generator, as a result of which too much current was supplied to the battery. More often, the battery boils to the bottom   in summer. Among other things, this is also due to the temperature environment in which the battery is located at this time of year.

The problem of repair is that it does not boil off the electrolyte, but the water that is included in its composition. And as we all know, electrolyte can not be added to the battery. However, in this case, add water to the battery and you will not be able to relax. Another problem, in connection with which it is impossible to add electrolyte, is itself battery principle.

During the discharge, the active mass of the battery plates absorbs the acid from the electrolyte, thereby lowering its density, during the charging process the reverse process occurs. All this is like breathing. If you top up the electrolyte, which already has a density, then there will be nowhere to exhale the plates.

So it turns out that with the indicated problem, we have the battery is fully charged   and there are no acids in the plates, there is no acid in the electrolyte, which, in turn, does not exist either. Vicious circle.

At first glance it may seem that under the given conditions it is possible to pour the electrolyte into the battery. This is not far from the truth. Approximately this is done at the plant, but the difference is that the plates are dried by a special method at the plant, and we can not do this because of the integral construction.

There is a solution. It is checked, but I will say right away. There is a risk of losing the battery and the time this process takes is three to five days. Depends on the specific case and degree of boiling, or rather, how quickly you noticed that the battery "dried up".

Since the battery is charged, we will begin with the fact that it is completely discharged. To do this, you must first pour distilled water into all the banks of the battery. After the water is poured, connect a consumer to the battery, preferably not very powerful. I usually used a 100 watt light bulb.

When the battery is discharged and the lamp goes out, you can put it on the first charge cycle. Yes! With water that was poured earlier. We put it on a small current, i.e. if the recommended charge current 10%   from capacity, we put on 5% . I usually put on 2 amps. An automatic charger may not be suitable for these procedures. it will be turned off, but we do not need it at all.

In the process of charging the battery with a period of several hours, check the density - it will grow and, eventually, will stop within 1.15 - 1.20 here the main thing is to wait until the growth does not stop, if the boiling is too turbulent reduce the current. Density may be less, which is generally good. In addition, pay attention to the purity of the solution, if it starts to darken strongly, then you can not suffer further.

The only time I messed around with a dropping battery, also dried ... weeks do not lie one and a half, but it was a friend, and he had no money for a new battery. Later this battery lasted 2 years and was sold together with the car. By that time, her age was seven years, i.e. A heart attack occurred at five.

Let's continue. So, the density has reached its maximum possible. Now you need to take all the electrolyte out of the battery and fill it again with distilled water. Then connect the consumer to it for the second full charge.

By this time, it will be two days, provided that the battery will be charged and discharged almost round the clock.

When the discharge is reached - put on charging and again on a low current. Watch for boiling, now the main thing is not to bend the stick. There have been cases when I reached up to 0.5 amperes. Vesicles should be weak, as in a glass of champagne.

In the most ideal case, the density remains zero, according to the hydrometer. From the point of view of time control. After boiling for about four hours, it will be enough to understand. If the density does not start to grow, then there will be no more. The process, one way or another, will take about eight hours.

If the density does not increase, the battery is charged. Disconnect it from the charger.

With a hydrometer, we take electrolyte from all the cans, as best as possible, after this neatly and gently   turn the battery upside down and leave to drain. About twenty minutes.

Yes! Reception forbidden. What is there to do? By the rules, we should have bought a new battery in general, for the boiling-out of the electrolyte is not permissible! You can cross your fingers.

After this painful procedure, gently put AKB   as expected and fill the new electrolyte ( it is the electrolyte, the one that can not be ). After that, we empty the battery again.

Then everything is simple. When the discharge is reached, put on a small current to charge, start with one ampere. By the time of boiling, we look electrolyte, if it is filled with a working mass and black color, then three days of our efforts under the tail. If something is floating, but generally not bad, then God is with him. We charge. Gradually, the current can be raised to 5% of the capacity.

Ideally, the density in all banks will be equal to 1.25 or 1.27 is not so important. Just need to be recharged to face value. But there may be another situation where the density is not even. In this case, it will be necessary to perform several charge-discharge cycles, but to discharge not completely, but to 10.5 volts.

Everything should turn out, even in spite of the complexity of the case. Strangely enough, but the variant considered by us is more complicated.

Here are the most common violations of the rules of operation

(1) Charge by excessively large force, exceeding several times the normal power. Overheating of electrolyte, warping of electrodes, less often - destruction of separators, shedding of active mass, etc. This usually occurs with forced charging modes using powerful chargers, especially under uncontrolled charge conditions.
(2) Increased

the voltage in the vehicle's on-board network leads

to a systematic recharge. The level of electrolyte decreases, its density increases. If you add electrolyte to the normal level, and not distilled water, the battery quickly becomes unusable. If you do not add anything, then electrodes sulphation is provided, the exposed elements of the electrodes quickly corrode, the active mass, especially the positive plates, swells, dies, loses its mechanical strength, dries. The battery quickly reduces the capacity, the electrolyte becomes cloudy. In such situations, the battery may become completely unusable.
(3) Battery overheating. It is known that when the temperature of the electrolyte rises above +35 degrees, the wear processes of the electrodes are activated, and if the temperature rises even higher, the battery life decreases dramatically. This situation is not uncommon, for example when the car was left in the sun under a dark-colored awning.
(4) Electrolyte contamination. The battery must be cleaned with a clean soft cloth dampened with ammonia or a solution of soda ash. If at least a very small part of the pollutants enters the electrolyte - the battery is doomed.
(5) Addition of undistilled water to the electrolyte

. This is a fairly common situation when there is no qualitative distilled water at hand, and simply add pure water to the electrolyte. The electrodes fail, and the battery goes to the recyclable warehouse.
(6) A new battery will fail even more quickly if it is prepared for it an electrolyte based on technical sulfuric acid.
(7) A short circuit can cause the battery to flash instantly. Most often this happens when the tool is handled with care in the vicinity of the battery, or as a result of damage to the insulation of the power cable.

(8) The low voltage of the on-board network is a very common situation. The battery is chronically discharged, the density of the electrolyte is lowered. Often cases of extreme discharges, for example, after starting the engine with a starter. The basic energy characteristics of the battery decrease, especially in the winter. A systematic undercharging can lead to a reversal of the battery during operation.
(9) Defrost the battery. The monoblock bursts, the electrolyte flows out after thawing. This happens in severe frosts when the density of the electrolyte is lower than the permissible values. Typically, this happens if you add distilled water to the electrolyte and do not take any measures to mix it with the electrolyte, or after several unsuccessful attempts to start the engine with a cold engine, frost a deeply discharged battery.

(10) Application of a powerful starting device. If you use a powerful non-specialized current source to start a cold engine, you can immediately "blow up"

battery. When this device is connected to the battery, the charge current can be so high that the electrolyte boils violently, and the ventilation holes are not able to discharge the evolved gases.
(11) Beyond discharge by starter currents. Often when the engine is difficult to start up, the battery is discharged to such an extent that the starter's anchor does not rotate. Such deep discharges lead to the fact that the plates very quickly crumble, crumble, and the battery breaks down.
(12) Increased density of electrolyte. For various reasons, the battery consumes water, the level goes down and the density of the electrolyte increases, and if you do not add distilled water, the battery will collapse.

The easiest way to disable the battery is to add ordinary water

Surprisingly, more often than not, when car battery or liquid is boiling in the battery, the car owners are less likely to blame the electrolyte or supposedly distilled water that they recently refilled. But in most cases this is the main and only reason.

As is known, distillate is water that has no impurities - "two o's" and nothing else. Distilled water is a dielectric. Check it out simply: take the tester and "ring" the water for a "break".

Clear water will show infinite resistance. Try this way to check a couple of ubiquitous bottles with allegedly distilled water. You will be unpleasantly surprised - everything will be in bottles, but not distilled water. Adding such water to the battery is the surest way to ditch it.

Not everyone, however, can arm with a tester and conduct similar control measurements. Well, there is an easier way. It is enough to pay attention to the container and the label. If before you a non-original bottle (for example, from under "Cola" or mineral water) with a label on which there is no data about the manufacturer, it is probably worthwhile to be on the alert. After all, there will be nobody to make a claim in case of buying a substandard product.

Sadly, a similar situation on the market and with electrolyte. In most cases, the car owner is offered all the same questionable bottles with "anonymous" labels. Density, however, is indicated. But does this information correspond to reality? Do manufacturers of such liquids know about the existence of GOST 667-83A, which indicates all the necessary requirements for electrolyte? And if they know, do they observe them? Again, if the label does not contain information about the manufacturer, who is to file a claim in case of what?